Liu Shandong Beef Noodles: Clear Broth and Fermented Black Beans

Liu Shandong opened in Taiwan in 1951 and has been in its current location, down a little alley, since 1971. This is one of those places I would call a hole-in-the-wall restaurant; however, it’s one of the more famous beef noodle spots. There is often a lineup any time they are open. I’ve eaten here quite a few times, and it remains one of my favourites, so of course I had to review it and include it in the beef noodle guide.

I arrived around 3 pm on a Monday, and got seated after just a couple of minutes. While I waited for my food, though, a few people after me did need to wait 10-15 minutes for a seat.

Photo by Kalen Johnson

After I sat down, I ordered the pure braised version. They also have a red-braised version, which apparently uses the same clear broth, but the broth’s colour changes slightly because of the stewed meat. The pure braised version is clean-looking beef, without any sauce or braise, while the red-braised version has darker meat that’s been sitting in a red sauce. Although the Mandarin names use 清 (qīng), meaning clear, for one and 紅 (hóng), meaning red or red-braised, for the other, the English translation they used was “pure” for the clear one and just “braised” for the red-braised one. Strangely, the server asked if I wanted the red-braised one instead of the clear one. She spoke Chinese, then said something about soy sauce in English. I confirmed I wanted the clear broth version. I also asked for the cucumber salad. Unfortunately, I had to ask for it again when she brought out the soup; I think she forgot.

Photo by Kalen Johnson

The payment system is a little different here. You can look at the menu while you wait in line; they may ask what you’d like before you're seated or when you sit down. When your food comes out, they'll ask you to pay right then. It’s a mix of counter service and table service. Signs posted around in Mandarin say it will take 15-20 minutes to cook your food. I’m not sure why; it might be the noodles that are being cooked fresh, perhaps? In any case, I don’t know if it took quite 15 minutes to get my bowl, but it was getting close.

Photo by Kalen Johnson

The bowl arrived, and it’s not a small bowl. For NT$240 (US$7.52), at such a famous place, it’s still fairly priced. This is a cash-only restaurant; there are signs outside to let you know. I had my NT$270 (US$8.46) sitting on the table, but when only the beef noodle soup came out, I asked for the cucumber salad again. It came out right after. The cucumber salad is smashed cucumber with a little vinegar and garlic. I will say, the cucumbers at Wanderlust were very garlicky, which I love. This one was quite tame in comparison. They cost NT$30 (US$0.94), so although it’s a small plate, it’s a very fair price.

Photo by Kalen Johnson

Photo by Kalen Johnson

The soup, though. It’s a large bowl. I mean, I ate it all, but I was quite full. It comes out with that clear broth, multiple pieces of meat sitting on top of a large amount of noodles. Plenty of scallions floating on top as well. Before adding anything, the broth already tasted quite nice. Good amount of salt and deep beef flavour, but much lighter than many beef noodle places with red-braised, darker broths. It’s just the start, though; you have to add some pickled mustard greens for a tangy note. Then there’s the 蔭豉 (yìnchǐ), a fermented black bean. It’s not a paste; the beans are kept whole. When you add it to the soup, you get intense hits of pure umami. That is what makes this beef noodle one of my favourites. They have a hot sauce as well, and combining those three additions into the soup really makes it a fantastic bowl. The great thing is they’re all condiments, so you can make it as spicy, umami, or sour as you want.

Photo by Kalen Johnson

The beef is tender, but still has some chew. I didn’t count, but it was probably at least 8 pieces, both small and large. The noodles were fine; they are about chopstick-width. I don’t know if they are any better than the noodles at Yongkang; I can say that I enjoyed these a lot more. One of the main things noodles do is sop up broth, so when the broth is extra flavourful, the noodles taste better by default. It’s also easy to get one of the fermented black beans mixed in with the noodles, again enhancing the flavour.

Photo by Kalen Johnson

Liu Shandong is not exactly a hidden gem; it’s very well known. It has over 11,000 reviews on Google Maps, with a 4.0 rating, rather high for a place with that many ratings and one that doesn’t solicit 5-star reviews. Right near Taipei Main Station, it’s also close to most people visiting and travelling around Taipei. They’re open from 8 am - 6 pm, and closed on Sundays. I’d suggest visiting either before the lunch rush if you’re able to, or after around 2 or 3 pm. I have waited in line before; the line moves, but since there is a wait for each bowl before being served, and it’s not a big restaurant, it’s not a fast-moving line. So if you see 30 people in line wrapping around the block, it’s going to be a pretty long wait. This spot is highly recommended, but waits can be long. Keep an eye on our best beef noodle guide; we’re on the lookout for places as good as, or nearly as good as, Liu Shandong, and we’ll share them when we find them.